Emmaus Europe

Addressing the second-hand textiles crisis

The second-hand textiles sector in the EU faces mounting challenges. Oversaturation of the market, rising operational costs, and the influx of low-quality fast fashion are threatening social enterprises, environmental sustainability, and inclusive job creation. Without swift intervention, key parts of the textile reuse and recycling ecosystem are at risk of collapse.

RREUSE, alongside its members Emmaüs Europe, Ressources, and TESS GEIE, has co-signed a policy paper urging policymakers to act decisively. Supported by Zero Waste Europe, the paper presents actionable recommendations, including fair Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes and interim financial measures to sustain the sector until more robust solutions are in place.

This joint effort emphasses the essential role of social enterprises in driving sustainable textile management and calls for policies that prioritise waste prevention and local reuse over incineration.

Read the joint policy paper
Circular economy / The environment  European Union News

© Emmaus Europe

Emmaus Terre, solidarity building and DIY! 

With the launch of a brickworks and a building materials recycling centre in Brittany, in the west of France, Emmaus Terre is innovating, while remaining faithful to the Emmaus tradition of welcoming and building! We spoke to Clarisse, the group’s administrative, accounting and community officer, to find out more about it. 

How did Emmaus Terre and the idea of focussing on construction come about?  

The idea emerged because one of its co-founders, Orane, wanted to create a reception centre supported by local business activity. For the past 10 years, she has been working with migrants and involved in organisations providing support and assistance.

Trained in earth masonry, she is a member of Collectif des Terreux Armoricains [Armorican earth workers’ collective], a group of earth construction professionals from the north-west of France, mainly craftspeople and project managers, who are generally quite socially committed. One day, she asked them what kind of economic activity could support her project, and the answer was unanimous: set up an unfired clay brickworks!

It was an obvious choice! Her training had given her the skills, and this type of business had not yet been developed. There was a real demand for production in the area, which traditionally has many unfired clay buildings, to save professionals from having to make their own bricks.

What led you to join the Emmaus Movement?

Once the business had been approved, all that remained was to find a legal structure. It was important to be able to welcome everyone without restrictions. That wasn’t easy as the majority of structures don’t allow undocumented migrants, for example.

After a great deal of thought, the solution was found in a bookshop! One day, Orane stumbled across a book on the Emmaus Movement. This seemed like the perfect fit – it’s the only model that offers unconditional welcome in France and which is in line with our values.

The initial links with the Movement were forged, and the business activity was launched in 2021. The group became a trial member in 2022, then a full member in 2024. Today, nine companions live in the community, which carries out several activities in parallel, with a team of five staff members.

You make unfired clay bricks, but you’ve also created a recycling centre for construction material, can you tell us more about your activities?

The solidarity brickworks is operating well, but there are also other materials such as sifted soil, for example, and service provision on masonry sites with a technical supervisor. We organise participatory brickmaking projects, in a warm, motivating atmosphere.

However, this activity is very seasonal as the drying time is very lengthy in winter when it’s cold and damp. It also requires a certain level of physical ability, something that not everyone in the community has.

So, we decided to launch a new activity called “Solidarity DIY”! Over a period of 9 months, Laura, a volunteer and member of the board who is now an employee, carried out a feasibility study and launched a new project: a second-hand shop selling DIY materials.

This activity also involves service provision, with the selective removal of materials that can be reused before buildings are demolished or refurbished. This has recently become compulsory in France and it will soon be the case in all European Union countries. We sell them on at our DIY shop!

You also have other projects in mind, could you tell us more?

It’s not yet possible in terms of space, but we are also planning to organise DIY and repair workshops, and create an area with tools so people can repair things themselves, etc.

In the meantime, we’re focussing on our project to buy a new house to welcome both male and, hopefully, female companions! Currently, they are all accommodated in two houses and the conditions are not easy for us to welcome women, even though gender diversity is also something we feel strongly about. A crowdfunding initiative is underway for this project!

In the longer term, we’re considering a third activity that would make it possible to accommodate more people with reduced physical ability, with a greater focus on people and care aspects: a retirement home or, in any case, a place where we can welcome the elderly. This is a long way from the construction industry, but it’s still in keeping with our values of mutual support and solidarity!

Circular economy / The environment  France News

© Emmaus Terre

2025

Newsletter

Fighting against modern slavery: victory at last!

In Emmaus groups, we are familiar with migration journeys of companions who have come from afar, enduring violence and exploitation at different stages along the way. These journeys are sometimes within the European continent, particularly for young Romanians welcomed by Emmaus Satu Mare, who were in care as children. This is Mariana’s story, told to us by Jean-Philippe, president of Emmaus Satu Mare.

June 2009, Satu Mare. Mariana is about to finish secondary school. She’s 19 and has lived in an orphanage with her twin sister Tunde since they were children. Tunde has had to repeat a year and can stay for another year at the children’s home. But for Mariana, finishing her studies means that she will no longer be looked after. A teacher introduces her to “Doamna Irina” (Mrs Irina), who is also Romanian, and she offers to take her to Italy.  She will earn money and will be part of the family until she has earned enough to live her own life. A job, money and a family? This is everything that Mariana has never had. She happily accepts.

August 2009, Rome. Once in Italy, Mariana quickly becomes disillusioned. “Doamna Irina” took her passport from her as soon as they left Romania. In terms of family life, she is forced to eat and wash herself on the balcony with two other young girls, who also come from Satu Mare orphanages. She works hard, from 4am every morning until late at night, doing cleaning jobs in residential homes, pharmacies and notary’s offices; all appear to be oblivious to her plight. No weekends or Sundays off nor public holidays. In return, she is on the receiving end of insults on a daily basis (gypsy, darkie, dirty, etc.) And is threatened every day that she will be put out on the street if she makes even the slightest wrong move.

End of 2012, Satu Mare. Tunde, Mariana’s twin sister, has been wandering from place to place and has finally come to Emmaus. One day, she tells us her sister’s story, as she hardly ever hears from her. We ask social services, who offer a reassuring answer. And we tell Tunde: “Mariana should go to the police if she is the victim of an offense”. Ten years on, we have to admit that it was easier said than done… And that in terms of access to rights, theory alone is no guarantee that anything will be done in practice, but that’s no reason to give up.

October 2013. Tunde has just received a call from Mariana, who invites her to come to Rome “on holiday”. Of course, we are very concerned, but Tunde, who hasn’t seen her twin sister for four years, is ready to jump on the next bus to Rome. In the end, we decide to go with her. We turn up at the address given, we meet Irina, the landlady, in the bar that she runs at the time, and who confides in us with a great deal of cynicism that “it’s so difficult to get the youngsters from the orphanage to work properly, but luckily we don’t have to pay them”. The following day, we come back to get Tunde, who has just spent 24 hours with her sister at Irina’s family home. Mariana wants to leave with us, but she is prevented from doing so by Irina, who piles on the emotional blackmail and unveiled threats.  We set off again feeling very down, after promising Mariana that we will find a solution.

We refer the matter to the Romanian Anti-Trafficking Agency, which, as luck would have it, has no jurisdiction outside Romania! They pass on our report to the Romanian embassy in Italy, which in turn says it is not competent to deal with the case, and forwards it to the Italian police, who do nothing.

January 2014. Mariana phones us using the caretaker’s phone in a building where she cleans and asks us to come to get her. We set off for Rome again, turn up once again at the family’s bar and this time we meet Irina’s son who instantly starts throwing punches at us. Increasingly concerned about Mariana, we turn to Emmaus Rome, where Isabella puts us in touch with a lawyer who specialises in helping migrants. Her name is Laura Barberio. With her help, we draw up a complaint, and present it to the police, who promise to intervene the same evening. The next day, there is a dramatic turn of events! The police tell us that Mariana is on her way to Romania; the family had got rid of her so that she wasn’t found in their home.

This marks the start of a long period of recovery for Mariana, who first of all has to learn about freedom. After 25 years in an orphanage, then under the control of “Doamna Irina”, Mariana feels obliged to ask permission to do anything, even to leave the house. She struggles to make choices or decisions for herself. Gradually, however, she has started to find her feet, helped by her sister, the community and soon by her husband.

Mariana also decides to press charges, and the community joins the civil action, both in Romania and in Italy. In Romania, the complaint is dismissed three times, on the grounds that Mariana would have known what to expect and has no one to blame but herself for having accepted this offer of “work”. In Italy, however, despite a botched investigation, the trial finally goes to a criminal court, where ‘’Doamna Irina‘’ is tried for enslavement. For no fewer than 15 days, i.e. one day a month, we have to produce new documents and testimonies. Finally, in September 2022, the sentence is handed down, confirmed by the Court of Appeal in 2023, then by the Court of Cassation in May 2024: 5 years and 4 months in prison for ‘’Doamna Irina‘’.

It took more than 10 years of legal proceedings to get justice. As Mariana says, “up to today, I had to remember every detail of those years in order to answer all the questions; now, I can start to forget”. She can now devote her energy to her 8-year-old son who she is raising with her partner.

Since 2010, the organisation has been able to bring back six other young people to Romania who were being exploited in Spain, Hungary, the Netherlands and the Czech Republic. Each time, the institutional mechanisms have proved ineffective to enable them to return home. Only Mariana’s legal proceedings have resulted in a conviction.

Defending human rights / Migration  News Romania
Marianna and her son are back with the young people of Satu Mare!

Marianna and her son are back with the young people of Satu Mare! September 2023. - Credit: Emmanuel Rabourdin